Bosnia and Hercegovina

We survived the long bus journey from Split to Mostar by not looking out the window at certain points - the road is along the coast, but in places the drop is amazing and no view can make up for the feeling of terror as you look down at some wrecks below. The bus became very hot and crowded, and just as we feared we could take no more, arrived in Mostar. For those of you who have asked for highlights, Mostar is definitely one of them. It was the scene of heavy fighting in the war, and the old town has been completely re-done, but it is spectacular. There is a raging torrent of a green river cutting through the city and the famous bridge is the site of a diving competition. Lovely, Turkish-influenced cafes with gauzy-drapes line the streets. The front line remains apparent with skeletons of destroyed buildings lining the street. It is interesting and varied and beautiful. After spending a good day wandering, eating and drinking (but not shopping -- I could have quite happily bought everything to decorate our new house in Colorado there!) we smoked apple tobacco out of a hookah in a cave and slept soundly.

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The next morning we were up first thing to catch the train to Sarajevo, a stunning journey along the river, full of HEP projects to keep Simon entertained and scenic villages and scenery to make me happy. We went straight to the museum upon arriving to learn about the seige of Sarajevo, then found our accommodation in the old town and did a self-guided walking tour of the city, including a visit to the Olympic venue of Torvill and Dean`s success. We had a good evening eating over the city. The next day we spent getting my haircut, walking up the river and down the suburbs and swimming at a fantastic, new pool before catching our hellish overnight train to Belgrade. E